Before bait rigging one of these, let's first spare it a moments thought, because it must be a tough old life being something like a sardine. They're
far too popular for their own good. Bass, tuna, wahoo, mahe mahe, billfish, dolphins and
whales - they all love them. And I'm a bit partial to grilled ones
But we're not just talking sardines here. Other baitfish for which this rigging method applies include herring, sprats, mackerel and flyingfish along with larger baitfish such as bonito.
The notable exception here is ballyhoo, not because it's inferior in any way - it isn't, it's one of the best baitfish of all - but because its elongated beak has earned it a special rigging technique.
But whatever the baitfish, it must first be properly prepared - 'limbered up' - for trolling before the bait rigging process begins.
It's most likely tha rigor mortis will have left your baitfish stiff and slightly curved, so although it may smell right, it won't look right when trolled astern.
A fish that may otherwise have grabbed it without hesitation is now more likely to ignore it altogether.
Here's how to make sure it will behave as it should ...
To resemble their living brethren, dead baitfish must swim convincingly when towed astern they should wriggle, but not spin. And for a lifelike wriggle, the baitfish must be flexible. And here's how to make it so ...
Now your baitfish is limp and flexible, and ready for rigging.
Having loosened up the baitfish, the rigging process can begin.
I've shown a sardine here, but most baitfish - herring, joey mackerel, sprats, pilchard and with a small adjustment, flyingfish - can be rigged in the same way.
First you'll need to decide on the leader material. Mono will allow the bait to work most convincingly, and will get the most hits as a result. But if you think a wahoo or some other toothy fellow may put in an appearance, wire would be a better choice.
Use plastic covered seven-strand wire, as single strand wire doesn't lend itself to this technique. To get the hook in the right place, you'll need a baiting (or rigging) needle. This is a length of stainless wire, around 250mm long with a point on one end and an open eye at the other. So let's get started ...
First, having decided on the leader material, select a large hook, about one third the length of the bait. Use the sharp end to mark the point, exactly on the centreline of the baitfish's belly, at which the hook will emerge.
Then attach it to a baiting needle as shown, and insert the baiting needle at the point you've just marked before pushing it through and out of the mouth of the baitfish.
Next, pull the hook into the sardines mouth and detach the needle.
Then slide a crimp onto your leader, attach the baiting needle and push the needle through the baitfish's head on the centreline, through the eye of the hook and out vertically below the point of entry.
Now remove the needle, and push the leader through the path taken by the
needle, including of course through the eye of the hook.
Pull the end of the leader through and into the crimp, slide the crimp back close to the mouth and nip off the excess line.
Finally, with the bait rigging process complete, eyeball the sardine head-on. The hook and the loop must all be on the centreline in the vertical plane, or it will spin.
Hold the leader and let the bait hang down.
Artwork by Andrew Simpson
Check! Is the hook pulling on the belly? If so, carefully cut a longitudinal slot at the point of entry with a sharp knife so that the hook can move freely.
If you've done the bait rigging properly, the sardine will be towed by the head loop and wont spin. Try it, and if it does, tweak the rig until it doesn't - or start again.
As a final embellishment you could slide a lure - such as sea witch, trolling feather, straight runner, clone, jethead or simply an octopus skirt - down the leader so that it locates against the nose of the baitfish.
When Mary and I crossed the Atlantic on our sailboat Alacazam, one of the first tasks at daybreak was to scour the decks for any flyingfish that had 'flown' aboard overnight.
If there were a couple of decent sized ones, then they were breakfast. Any others were destined for the trolling line.
Incidentally, flying fish can't be said to 'fly' as they don't flap their wings - but they do glide considerable distances to outmanouver their pursuers.
And to be strictly correct they don't have wings either - they're just extended pectoral fins. But we'll call them wings.
Of course you could just cut of its wings - the pectoral fins - and rig as for a standard baitfish as described above. Alternaitively you could try this final embellishment...
Trolled astern, this bait will behave very much like the real thing sometimes submerged, at other times skipping along the surface and even taking short flights.
You shouldn't have long to wait ...
Clearly, the rig must be properly made up, so here are some tips on using your bait rigging kit. Follow these carefully and you'll soon be an expert!
Jul 19, 17 02:07 PM
Ever wanted a leader wire comparison chart which sets out all the strengths and weaknesses of the various wire line types clearly and objectively? Here is one that does just that
Jul 19, 17 01:22 PM
Fluorocarbon fishing line has some excellent properties. Low uv degradation, high abrasion resistance, low stretch, low absorption. But above all, it's almost invisible in the water
Jul 19, 17 02:52 AM
Centre console, wheelhouse or maybe a high speed inflatable? Inboard or outboard motors? Of all the designs of saltwater fishing boats, how do you find the one that suits your needs best?