Rigging trolling lures like plugs and spoons for maximum security is fairly
straightforward; your main consideration will be limited to the length
and material for the leader together with your own expertise in making the lure connection at one end and a reinforced loop at the other.
From all other aspects, you're pretty much stuck with the workmanship of the lure manufacturer.
This is particularly true with plugs, where some of the lesser-known manufacturers from distant shores may not be quite as diligent as more familiar lure companies like Rapala, Yo-Zuri, Williamson and so on.
But skirted trolling lures are a different matter, as they're made up of individual components that can be customised to suit the precise requirements of the angler.
Unlike all other trolling lures - except the cedar plugs and their derivatives - the ultimate strength of the skirted trolling lure is entirely up to the angler rigging it.
The skirt and the lure head don't take any of the load - it's all down to the hook and the leader and the connection between the two. It's no wonder that skirted trolling lures are so popular with big-game fishermen.
But how do you go about rigging trolling lures of this type? A good place to start would be the hook.
My first venture into the world of offshore trolling was through trailing a plastic squid lure astern of my sailboat. It was only after losing fish after poorly-hooked fish, and having the hook straightened out a few times did I come to the conclusion that all was not as it should be.
Now I only use hooks that are truly up to the job and I keep them razor sharp.
And they're definitely not as sharp as they could be when they come out of the packet, so you'll need to do some work on them with a hook file before using them for the first time, and check them after every fish.
How to check them? Just run the point lightly over your thumbnail - if it tends to catch or dig in, it's sharp.
If it just skates over the surface, it isn't.
So far so good - right hook, properly sharpened, but what about size?
I can't remember who showed be this trick - but it works. Just check the hook against the head of the lure. If the gape of the hook is pretty much the same as the diameter of the head, then the hook size is about right.
Just one more thing, the location of the hook within the lure...
You don't want the hook hanging out the back of the lure where it might spook the fish, nor do you want it too far forward where it might not gain a secure hold in the fish's mouth. It needs to be close to the back of the skirt, but still concealed within it.
The precise location can be fine tuned by incorporating plastic beads between the hook and the lure head as shown in the pic.
The most popular leader for trolling lures is heavy nylon monofilament line, and rightly so for most applications.
Recently though, having convinced myself that it really makes a difference, I've been gradually swapping these as they become due for replacement, with fluorocarbon line.
Two things to know about fluorocarbon leaders - one is that this stuff is almost invisible under water, and two it's mighty expensive. Much more so than mono, and especially in the high breaking strains that you'll need for offshore trolling. So before you click on this link, take a deep breath...
Neither of these will stand up to the treatment handed out by predators with a well-developed set of dentures, like wahoo for example. For these you'll need a wire leader.
Think carefully before going down the single-strand wire route though, as it can work-harden and fail when you'd much rather it didn't. This is particularly true when using a trolling lure with a good swimming action. Think of how you snap off the end when tying a haywire twist and you'll see what I mean!
Plastic covered multi-strand wire is a good choice for the toothy chaps, but watch out for nicks and scratches in the coating. Once water gets trapped between the wire and the coating it will quickly corrode - with predictable results.
For the ultimate in durability plain wire cable is the way to go. Nothing, but nothing, will chew through this. But it's equally as visible to the fish as is the lure, which is not good news...
Unless you're using a mono or fluorocarbon leader of less than 50lb breaking strain, connecting the leader to the hook with a knot isn't going to work.
More expense - you'll need a crimping kit for rigging trolling lures with anything other than single-strand wire.
If you haven't already got it, you're going to need a crimping tool and a selection of suitable sleeves.
Clearly, the rig must be properly made up, so here are some key tips on using your crimping kit for rigging trolling lures. Follow these and you'll be an expert in no time!
Crimps though, won't hold in single strand wire - the wire will pull straight through when any load is applied to it. The only way of making a connection in this stuff is with a Haywire Twist.
At the other end of the leader make a reinforced crimped loop, either with a Flemish Eye or a thimble. The kit shown here contains both stainless steel and plastic ones.
Jun 17, 19 01:19 PM
The fixed spool design of the saltwater spinning reel means that over-runs just can't happen. As long as line twists are avoided, long hastle-free casting is almost guaranteed
Jun 17, 19 01:05 PM
If they're not going to let you down, your big game fishing reels must be properly designed and engineered, but what are the vital features you need to look for?
Jun 16, 19 09:48 AM
But there are plenty of other proven trolling lures to choose from – diving plugs, surface poppers, soft-plastic lures or spoons for example. Which one would you decide on?